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If you’d rather spend Saturdays swinging a putter instead of a grass whip, it’s easy to make that dream come true.
These Tools Will Help
Plans and Materials
Before putting down the turf, the dirt or soil subsurface of the area to be covered should be shaped and well tamped. The covered area should also be pitched slightly to direct water runoff where you want it to go.
The perimeter boards (headers) can be installed as shown in the drawings and photos. This method creates shiplap joints by doubling up two-bys. Start by installing the headers because these can also be used for screeding the concrete.
Once they are in and secured by stakes, the earth inside can be excavated and tamped. Then the concrete is laid up to the solid header and maintained approximately 3⁄8 to 1⁄2 in. below the header’s top edge. This measurement should be as consistent as possible to maintain a uniform grass height. You can achieve it by using a notched screed on the header boards to level the concrete. If you use asphalt instead of concrete, seal the surface, and allow it to dry overnight before laying the turf.
Also, don’t forget the cups.
Looking For Something Simple?
The designer and builder of the putting strips shown here says any patio putter or deck duffer can do the same. Two strips are 12 ft. long with 10-ft. putts, while the trickier version is 14 ft. long with a 16-ft. putt. This is achieved with a loop-the-loop fashioned from sheet metal that’s intended to be a hazard unlike anything you’re likely to encounter on the golf course.
The artificial green is golf and patio turf; each strip is 2 ft. wide and has cups set in 1 ft. from both ends. The cups are made by cutting 1 1⁄2-in.-deep sections from coffee or juice cans about 4 1⁄4 in. in diameter. The turf is glued to a base of 1⁄2-in. exterior-grade plywood. To keep errant balls on the greens, strips are framed with 5⁄4 x 4-in. Douglas fir nailed to plywood edges.